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“They are for money and work,” the plump little witch raises the talismans to eye level. “With these you will have good luck.”

Magic talismans for money and work? Do they work? Of course not, but I need all the luck I can, so I buy the talismans for five bolivianos. Damn cheap if they do what they say. Leaving the new toys in my leather bag, I continue down the street, while my wife taunts me to the tune of “Raiders of the Lost Ark.” He says I have the Indiana Jones-like hat, jacket, and bag, but I’m missing my whip and gun. I left them in the United States. The cobbled street of Calle Linares is home to a crowded line of unusual shops known collectively as El Mercado de las Brujas, located in downtown La Paz, and pretty much sums up the strangeness of Bolivia. Bolivia is where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and the revolutionary Che Guevara found their destiny. This is where the British ambassador to Bolivia was tied naked to a donkey, paraded through the capital and forced to eat a large quantity of chocolate after rejecting the local drink ‘chicha’. This is where the original Garden of Eden is located (or so the locals exclaim in vivid colors). This is where the Salt Palace is located, a hotel made entirely of salt. And this is where a young woman dressed as Aymara, sitting in the middle of a series of curiosities, offers my wife and me a dry llama fetus to protect our house from evil spirits. I nod in approval, Veronica winces and shakes her head.

“Please come in”, with a slight bow the girl opens her hands towards the entrance of the store. “There are many more things inside.”

The messy place looks like something out of a horror movie. Mounted animal heads stare at me with blind eyes, feathers and potions grace the tables, herbs spill from their dirty bags onto the wooden floor as a dog sniffs out the powerful scents. I examine the items in no particular order when the girl offers them. To get lucky with a new business, I can buy a burned llama fetus in a candy and herb dish, too big to pack. The charm of love is getting married, I don’t need it. A charm of a naked couple hugging to enhance sex life – hhhmmmmm. Dried frogs for more money, armadillos to prevent thieves from entering the house, love potions, magic amulets, animal skins, medicines and remedies used in Aymara traditions are all for sale, what should I choose?

I notice a large collection of candles of different colors. With the intention of making several sales, the girl gives me an explanation of her powers. They are made of animal wax and when burned they release their magical properties. The blue candle is for good luck with work, yellow – health, green – money, purple – happiness, black protects evil spirits, only to be used in a covered cemetery at night, white – protection … With curtsy tugged the black candle off its shelf. “Look at this Vero! This is what we need.” “Hello Indiana,” he looks up from the amulet of the naked couple. “I do not believe it.”

Where did I leave my whip?

If the black candle is going to cause trouble, a few talismans will suffice. I load ten more in my bag, making sure to include the toad talisman for good luck with money and the deity talisman for good luck with jobs.

But do they really work? Well, you are reading this article.

SIDEBAR

Name: The Witches ‘Market / Sorcery Market (Witches’ Market)

Location Street: Calle Linares, between Calle Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz

City: La Paz

Country: Bolivia

The Witches Market is just a couple of blocks from Plaza San Francisco, behind San Francisco Church and near the Coca Museum. From the center of La Paz, Plaza Murillo, a taxi ride to the market will cost around 8-10 Bolivianos for one or two people, and around four Bolivianos more for each additional person. A wide variety of unique and very unusual items are sold in the market, many of which are used in Aymara traditions and to honor the goddess of the land Patchamama. Negotiate with sellers and shop around to buy merchandise at a lower price.

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